There is an old saying that tasty food needs no advertising. This is true. For those of you inquisitive foodies, you will agree that the ‘street food’ at Aluthkade has steadily created pulsating raves among the young and old, and others in-between. This is one culinary domain that is unique in many ways. I am privileged to be one of the first to write about this area years ago when it was blossoming as a food venue.
The eateries along this street have been in operation for some years now, and among them one has enticed customers since 1956. I have previously written about the Asker Hoteland its head cook Naleem Haji, who was also known as “Dudley Uncle”. He was my dear friend and I enjoyed talking to him. His knowledge of cooking was a divine gift. Naleem passed away two years ago. This rotund, kind man was the pioneer who brought about the concept of “Muslim street food”, which he brilliantly built as a “desired brand”.
He was the ‘culinary ambassador’ who faithfully kept alive family recipes from generations, and influenced aspiring young men to passionately enter into the street food business. Even today he is venerated as a master of cooking and an expert in public relations.
Joyful reflection
Street food in every country is a manifestation of its local ingredients, cooking methods, culture and a hint of its religious 
beliefs. At Aluthkade the food is a joyful reflection of Middle Eastern food – which has over the decades aligned itself to the needs of the local Sri Lankan community. I have observed that some traditional food has also been prudently adapted to suit customer’s expectation – which shows the business acumen of these vendors. For those who have not discovered this culinary paradise Aluthkade can be entered from the Fort area via Mihindu Mawatha, taking a left turn from there or can be reached from Armour Street main road taking the turn from Bandaranayke Mawatha.
Let’s pause for a moment and see the overall appeal of this venue which supplements the good food. Aluthkade and its environs have been the home of a hardworking Muslim community, where Tamils and Sinhalese also coexist together. The area is dotted with mosques. During the day it’s a busy artery of business where wholesalers and retailers compete. The traffic is intense. By evening, after 7 pm to be precise the entire landscape seems to change. This is because trading ceases.
Late Naleem
It is now that the charm of cuisine spreads its wings upon these roads. Trays of marinated meat can be seen, taken by some youth. Others are busy extending canvas cloths to act as temporary shelters across their food shops. Tables and chairs pop up. Waiters of different ages take their positions. Inside the shops’ stoves are lit. BBQ grills spring into action. The sounds of sizzling and frying can be heard. The aroma of spicy food permeates the air. The stage is set for a great night of street food.
The customers at Aluthkade are diverse in age. The groups of foodies represent young executives from the corporate sector, especially on a Friday night. The second segment consists university students. Older adults have also slowly taken a liking to this food and are now a major customer base. Families also congregate to eat here.
Unique items
I made my recent visit with my friends Ravi Francis and Augustus Pious. As we began walking various vendors invited us to
Mr. Firdhouse
come and eat, making all sorts of promises about their food. Some of the unique items here include the dolphin kottu- the name given to a kottu dish that is served and must be shared by at least five people. It can be topped with a diverse assortment of meat and poultry. The glowing orange embers on the giant grills accentuated the appeal of chicken kebabs and beef kebabs. The aroma of food was alluring and fantastic! There was an array of naans and rottis to accompany all this meat. I must mention if you’re a vegetarian Aluthkade will not captivate you, sorry. But you can still travel there to witness the action.
I observed the emergence of enterprises selling burgers- filled with the Muslim style beef and chicken. This is innovative, but some foodies say it’s not a reflection of the traditional cuisine. Nevertheless innovation attracts different customers. The beef dishes extend to include fried beef, roast beef, beef curry, beef keema, BBQ beef and an enchanting beef “sambol”. I must mention here that another reason for Aluthkade to blossom over the past few years as a culinary hotspot, is because of the fair prices, generous servings and friendly talkative staff. The bliss of street food is that you can visit in shorts and slippers.
Another succulent hit at Aluthkade is the manni-pittu and babath curry- babath is tripe for those souls not oriented with Malay food. The tripe is cooked to divine perfection and melts in your mouth. You can enhance your meal by having the ‘parts curry’ which contains beef parts like the liver, spleen etc. British chefs will call this as offal- the correct culinary term! Whether you eat pittu or naan you can order extras like fried eggs, fried cuttlefish and even fish eggs (roe).
Tantalizing food
Aluthkade is not only about tantalizing food. There are carts selling beverages. The king of the list is a special drink called Koowath- an upgraded version of baddam milk. The unique Koowath has an amazing 16 ingredients infused into a chilled glass of fresh milk. What a refreshing and energizing drink. There are variations of fruit juices, faluda and other mocktails. For those desiring their cup of tea, Aluthkade has taken tea to the next level. Again new renditions of tea served with glee. The making of tea on these roads includes dexterity- displaying showmanship. Every form of food and beverage prep is done with pride. Sweets complete the experience.
On this visit we had dinner at the eatery of Mr. Firdhouse, a bearded energetic man. He was also influenced by the late Naleem. In fact his eatery is right opposite the Asker Hotel. Firdhouse and his cooks offer a wide ranging menu, and the chicken palandi is their signature dish. The food was full of flavour and value for money.
A night out at this location is a recharge for the mind and body. Food connects people. It beautifully transcends race and religion. It empowers Sri Lankans and foreigners to chill and learn about other cultures. Aluthkade cuisine resonates with unity. The allure of Aluthkade will dominate Colombo’s street food scene for many years.
