Alluring bliss of Karainagar

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The demands of work facilitate the need for a relaxing getaway from Colombo City. This narrative is from three visits to a region in the Northern Province. Karainagar (Island of Karai trees) is a destination that effortlessly combines the majesty of the ocean, the religious splendour of ancient kovils and a myriad of succulent seafood. It is a destination that truly redefines paradise. Access to Karainagar is via a causeway (bridge). You can drive there, take a bus from Jaffna town or go by ‘hiring car’. The latter is a beautiful option because the hiring cars in Jaffna are actually vintage cars that are still in prime running condition.

Decades ago, the area was known as Karaitheevu (theevu means island in Tamil) but over the past decade adopted the name of Karainagar. As we drove along the causeway that connects the island to the mainland, we saw green nets on either side of the road, where fishermen waded waist deep in the emerald green water and caught an assortment of fish. Crabs are also caught in this traditional manner. Women also engage in this fishing exercise. The sun yielded her glorious rays, as if to

paint the sky with a show of radiance.

As we neared Vallanthalai, one of the first quiet towns, the serenity of the area was most welcoming. The strong aroma of fresh fish permeated the air as the local market drew her citizens for the day’s catch. I noticed there was much bargaining as cycles passed by. The bicycle is the reliable source of transport on this large island and every home has one. I later understood people here never keep fish in the fridge, the custom is to buy fresh from the beach. The houses in Karainagar are prudently built to blend with the natural environment. Thankfully, trees are retained in the construction process, as they offer shade.

The daily routine of the people here is all about simply co-existing alongside nature. After the initial train journey from Colombo, I was quite tired. I reached the residence of my friend Vincent Rajkumar, whose family has been known to my parents for more than five decades. After a steaming cup of tea, I opted for a refreshing bath at the well. These deep wells produce water that has a mild flavour of lime. Amazingly, many species of plants have somehow adapted to this water. However, this water is not good for drinking and there are designated ‘clean water’ wells in this quaint village.

This was followed by a glass of nelli crush, the signature drink of Jaffna. A few curious neighbours had now come to meet the ‘Colombo visitor’. I was drawn into a time of village gossip, and the ‘Island folk’ wanting to know updates about Colombo. The sea breeze gently drifts into the homes where windows remain open at night. This is a testament to the spirit of the community, and the safety it brings. Even though gates are closed, they are not locked. The chit chat session ended and the neighbours went away. Dinner consisted of string hopper, cuttle fish curry and a fiery hot coconut sambol.

I woke up the next morning to the crowing of roosters. I looked out the window and saw a flock of birds passing by. Whilst in the large garden Vincent kindly announced that he was going to serve one of the roosters for lunch. This was in honour of my visit. I felt terribly embarrassed that my visit had warranted the death of an innocent rooster, but this was the village courtesy extended. The sun’s magnificent rays painted the morning sky, with inspiring hope for any traveller. The chirping of exotic birds was refreshing. My host by now had skillfully cooked the rooster, adding many Northern spices into a clay pot.

After breakfast, we headed towards our first stop, the old church belonging to the Church of American Ceylon Mission (CACM). During those bygone times, the clergy taught English and other social skills to the humble island folk. The church, built in 1855, still stands today.

From here, we hired a tuk-tuk. A few hundred yards away the Gopuram (tower) of the Sivan Kovil reached piously into the clouds. The temple manifested a riot of colour as murals adorned its walls, in contrast to the silence of the area. Two rock statues of a Hindu deity stood at the entrance, like sentinels watching the devotees. An old priest was offering incense within the inner chamber of this sanctum. The fragrance of the burning incense combined with the sacred Hindu chanting shows the religious diversity that Sri Lanka is blessed with.

We proceeded from here to the jetty. Clusters of palmyrah trees dotted the landscape. The palmyrah tree is a symbol of resilience. These amazing trees are woven into the fabric of Northern culture. Here the sea dazzled us with her vibrant waves. What a fantastic area for tourism. From the jetty, I saw the old Fort, rising out of the blue waters. Originally built by the Portuguese it was named Fortaleza Real (Fort Royal). After the Dutch invasion, it was renamed as Fort Hammenhiel. As we waited patiently for the ferry to arrive, a group of old men were smoking rolled dry tobacco leaves, a homemade beedi (a local cigar of sorts). The ferry, which connects Karainagar to the island of Kayts, arrived. The ferry ride took about 10 minutes. The sturdy boat can carry motorcycles and three-wheelers. Many schoolchildren are dependent on this safe ride to get to school.

The mesmerizing Island of Kayts is like a page from a travel magazine. A row of shops displayed ancient wooden doors, with carved trelliswork on the topmost part. Old lamps were suspended on wooden ceilings. These are real travel memories. There are many old churches here, among them, a church dedicated to St. James and a shrine to honour St. Anthony. This church celebrated 200 years of ministry, and I have written about it before. On our return, we visited a small shop which sold products based on palmyrah.

We returned to Karainagar and the sun was pretty intense. I picked up the distant visual of a bullock cart. The sight of the cart was so lovely. Two majestic ‘Vaddakan’ bulls had been yoked together, and a young man controlled them with much pomp. He smiled at us displaying betel stained teeth. Decades ago owning such a cart was a symbol of status. Another well bath preceded lunch, enhanced with a glass of nelli crush. The departed rooster lay immersed in a pot of curry. It went down well with the vegetables and red rice. An absolute delight. After a while, Vincent’s wife served dessert, a sweet delicacy known as mothakam- a steamed dumpling filled with grated coconut, green gram and jaggery. These are joys that come from a simple home stay.

The evening was spent by taking a walk and chatting to a few senior citizens, who had gathered under a tree. In rural areas a large tree serves as a meeting point for seniors. Nighttime accentuated the serenity of Vallanthalai. A neighbour had kindly brought some dried fish. This delicacy had originally arrived from Mannar, a location famous for quality dried fish. Around 10 pm, Vincent decided to keep the old iron kettle on a makeshift fire in the back garden. The flickering flames, burning in bluish purple and golden orange, in the moonlit garden is a travel snapshot. Frogs croaked aimlessly from concealed positions. An uninvited tabby cat decided to sit and view the night’s proceedings. A few hens and another defiant rooster sat in a cluster enjoying the warmth of the flames. Life can be enjoyed in simple ways.

The next morning we headed towards the local cafe to buy milk hoppers- paalappam. I was anticipating this Northern relish. We encountered teachers and students cycling to school. The milk hoppers were made to perfection by a beautiful Tamil woman, whose long black hair enhanced the beauty of her smiling face. We enjoyed the hoppers and took some home. Vincent worked at the main post office. I was warmly received by his colleagues when we dropped by for a visit. The post office was quiet and had no rush like a city post office. This year my kind host Vincent Rajkumar retired from the post office after 30 years of service.

The roads in Vallanthalai rarely witnessed traffic, except for cyclists. The ‘town bus’ to and from Jaffna travelled to a time table. A few women walked taking pots of water. The fences erected with palmyrah fronds added to the natural surroundings. Red chilies were drying in a garden alongside fresh lime. The lime was salted and kept to transform itself into pickles. Lime pickle is a Northern relish appealing to any age group. This village by the beach has so much seafood. I cherished the crabs and prawns. Fried fish is a culinary gem. Casurina Beach is another must-visit destination. The beach was very clean. The sunset gently receded into the evening sky. I was heading back to Colombo. Karainagar is indeed an enchanting and serene island.