Handloom and batik textiles is more than an industry for us Sri Lankans. It is part of our unique cultural identity. It is our heritage. Because of our cultural roots, Sri Lankans are naturally gifted when it comes to the production of handloom and batik textiles. In written history it is said that when King Vijaya landed in Sri Lanka, he found Kuveni was weaving cotton. So we know that Sri Lankan handlooms are centuries old. When we talk about handlooms and batik textiles, we have a goldmine right here in Sri Lanka. No doubt this is what has prompted President Gotabaya Rajapaksa to stop the importation of handloom and batik textiles, with the aim of uplifting producers in the industry and to attract more producers. The Daily News spoke to a cross-section of those involved in the industry to find out what they think of the ban.
National Craft Council (NCC) Chairman Sudath Abeysekara called this policy decision a massive relief for local batik and handicrafts artisans. He said that this has been the demand of our handicraft industrialists. It has been a big problem for them as their creations are copied and reprinted in other countries and then sent back to the Sri Lankan market. Hence, this policy decision has been a great help for our locals.
“This move is extremely practical and beneficial to the people of Sri Lanka and the local industries. It is beneficial to both producers and consumers. The people of Sri Lanka have the opportunity to purchase truly unique products of excellent quality. This will create an opportunity for the local market to truly expand. Our local artisans will be uplifted and attract buyers. Our artisans have the opportunity to produce new and creative products because there is a big demand. The target is to attract the new generation. If handlooms and batik can be popularized amongst the younger generation, that will be a huge incentive to our local artisans. The artisans can profit wonderfully and gain recognition. It is a win-win situation for everyone in Sri Lanka,” explained Abeysekara.
He added that there are many problems faced by those in the industry in Sri Lanka. The main problems are lack of technology upgradation, inadequate capacity to source the requisite raw materials, marketing of products, inability to avail of institutional credit, and entry barriers to trade.
“But due to the Covid-19 pandemic, the textile industry and other industries have collapsed as well. That is a common problem. This policy decision is aimed at uplifting the handicraft and batik industry in Sri Lanka. With batik and handicrafts becoming rejuvenated, it will also help the garment industry as well. This will also establish the brand name of our local products in other countries,” added Abeysekara.
He commented on the role of the NCC in the batik and handlooms industry. Batik and handlooms are one component under the NCC, which was established as a means of upgrading the craft communities, aiding raw material and equipment provision, looking into welfare, training, awards and exhibition opportunities, and more. Its ideals were the promotion, development, fostering, and preservation of handicrafts, and uplift of the social and economic status of crafts people. As such, the NCC plays the major role in the batik and handlooms industry in Sri Lanka.
Handlooms are in our blood. It is second nature to us Sri Lankans. Abeysekara stated that generally, the handloom industry is a household or cottage industry where skilled hands create value-added products, and has helped showcase the undying creativity of generations of Sri Lankans taking them to the international arena. The handloom industry is a highly labour-intensive, export-oriented rural-based industry.
A range of designs and colours – individual and innovative designs, craftsmanship, colour combinations and patterns are handed down from generation to generation. He said he is certain that our local products are of high quality and are attractive.
“This will really save a large amount of foreign exchange. When the importation is stopped, there is no need to pay a large sum of money to other countries. This decision was taken with the expectation of boosting local production and attracting new producers to the industry. The measure is expected to save a large amount of foreign exchange drawn to other countries. This move is definitely ‘Sri Lankan people oriented’,” said Abeysekara.
“This decision will definitely strengthen the country. The whole world is now fighting a pandemic. So countries need to survive at present. We also need to do the same. This is the time to organize, encourage and implement. The results will be seen in a very short time. We have a great and rich history for handlooms and batiks. In written history, it is said that when King Vijaya came to the island, he discovered Kuveni weaving cotton. So, one can understand that our Sri Lankan handlooms and batik industry is centuries old. We need to motivate our artisans in the industry. What can we do to motivate them? It is always done with the recognition. That is what the NCC does. This policy decision by the President is timely and wise,” explained Abeysekara.
FAIR TRADE
Selyn Exporters (Pvt) Ltd Chairperson Sandra Wanduragala also shared her opinions on the President’s move. Sandra Wanduragala founded Selyn in 1991 in her home garage with 15 women from the village of Wanduragala in Kurunegala. Joined shortly thereafter by her brother and Managing Director Hilary Wanduragala, Selyn now has around 1,000 artisans in its networks. Today, Selyn is Sri Lanka’s only fair trade-certified handicrafts company and one of its largest social enterprises. Selyn is proud to be among the top handicraft retail brands in the country while exporting to fair trade and other customers all over the world.
“I personally feel that the decision to ban the import of handlooms and batik products is welcome in the short term especially during these Covid-19 times. However, at the moment, the global and local markets have taken a major downturn and the effectiveness of this decision could be only measured when the market conditions improve,” said Wanduragala.
She stated that to reap the benefits of this decision, there should be a mechanism and a strategic plan and an enabling environment in place to support these industries. She said that there has to be a long-term strategy to promote the industry as a whole.
“When thinking of the long-term consequences of the ban, to begin with, I’m not sure that this ban can be sustained in the long run due to our long-standing relationship with Indian trade. In addition, unless the other challenges in the industry are met, for example, that of ageing artisans and rising cost of our products, this ban will not bear any fruit. It’s up to the industry to capitalize on it and make the best out of it. We at Selyn have always been trendsetters and ahead of the Indian quality handlooms that come into the market in any case. In addition, being a fair trade company, we also work in a manner which enables us to collaborate and partner with others in the industry. We will continue our journey in the same manner after the ban,” said Wanduragala.
Provincial Director of the Industrial Development Department in the Southern Provincial Council, Krisantha Mahendra, said that this decision is of paramount importance to the handloom manufacturers who are engaged in the industry all over Sri Lanka.
“As we all know, there are two ways in which handloom textile products reach the Sri Lankan consumer, namely, locally made handloom textile products and imported handloom textile products. In recent times, large quantities of handloom textile products have reached Sri Lankan consumers by way of imports from the neighboring countries. Although these products are called ‘handlooms’, they are really not. These are ‘power-loomed’ products, but look like handlooms. The timely decision by the President will greatly enhance the production of Sri Lankan craftsmen in the handloom textile industry. They will get a considerable market opportunity for their products and thereby they will thoroughly benefit from it,” said Mahendra.
Mahendra sees this move as being positive. He calls this decision timely from the perspective of local manufacturers. This decision is certainly pragmatic and sensible. This move will give our local manufacturers confidence. They can start this vocation and feel a sense of security and feel recognized and accepted. Handlooms and batiks were major industries in the good old days in our country. They can enter these two industries without fear or worry.
“Generally, any import for a country is considered a threat to the local manufacturer of that particular product. But if there are no means in that country to produce that particular product, there is no option, so we have to import that product. However, in these two specific industries, namely, handlooms and batik, we have almost all the production factors right here in our country. Therefore, we have the potential not only to fulfill the local consumer demand, but also to export as well,” explained Mahendra.
“India, Thailand and Indonesia are the major countries that we import from. This decision will save foreign exchange as well as raise the income level of local industrialists within the country.
technologY
“It is important to note that technological advancement in any industry is an essential factor in the development of that industry. Accordingly, in these two industries too, technological advancements, value chain developments and human resource skill developments will definitely help to create the export opportunities for Sri Lanka when it comes to batik and handlooms,” said Mahendra.
He wished to highlight the activities of his Department, ‘Ruhunu Ransalu’. They have disproved the myth that the ‘government can’t do business’. To prove that, they in the Industrial Development Department have granted around Rs. 66 million as wages for their weavers spread in the province.
“Ruhunu Ransalu has started the research and development of traditional machineries in the handloom industry with the support and guidance of Mechanical and Industrial Department of the Engineering Faculty of the Ruhuna University. This was initiated under a broad MoU signed by the university and the Southern Provincial Council. Under this programme, we managed to develop three machines, namely, warping machine, bobbin and perm winder and the traditional handloom machine. In India, we have experienced that technical advancements have indeed improved efficiency which in turn has improved the financial situation of the weavers,” said Mahendra.
He also made reference to the ancient texts saying that the handloom textile industry of our country is mentioned in the Mahavamsa. So, this is as old as the written history of our country. Apart from that, the historical Indian book Rajatarangani mentions that costumes for India’s noble princes and princesses for special occasions were specially made and imported from Sri Lanka. “According to the evidence we have, the batik industry dates back to the Dutch era of Ceylon,” Mahendra said.
“To motivate our artisans, we have to create a conducive environment, so that they are looked after by the authorities of our country. We have to acknowledge their abilities by way of giving due respect and it will eventually lead to increasing their self-esteem. We have to provide them a fitting business environment to make them financially self-sufficient,” said Mahendra.
Creative Director/ CEO of Buddhi Batiks, Darshi Keerthisena, a fashion and textile designer working with indigenous artisans and some of the local university textile design graduates expressed her gratitude saying that they are grateful to the President for taking this decision.
“This decision will directly and indirectly help the local craft industry to grow due to the demand created by the lack of imported batiks in the market. For us at Buddhi Batiks, we saw some of our designs being copied and made into prints, which devalued our craft with the imported printed batik. I see that already there is an uplifting of spirits among the entrepreneurs and the artisans of the industry. The hope of better demand, respect for the craft and valuing of local art has lifted spirits amongst the other batik artisans I met in my village as well as at the Sri Lanka National Crafts Council when the chairman invited the batik artisans to discuss the way forward,” said Keerthisena.
Commenting on the long-term consequences of the President’s decision, she said that it will create more demand, and hence more jobs, respect for local industries, preserving the local art and innovations around the industry.
There are still some challenges we will have to overcome, Keerthisena said. Talking to the artisans and entrepreneurs in her village in Koswadiya, she says smaller batik businesses still don’t get a fair price for their products. They have to go through middlemen.
“If the government could have a centre for wholesale buying for distribution to help these batik artisans to get a fair price, it would be great. We have a retail store so we do business directly with the customer avoiding this issue. It’s the smaller wholesale businesses that need this help,” said Keerthisena.
She added that appreciating local made will encourage the buyer to value local goods and buying local will help the economy of the country. This could be achieved by helping the local craft entrepreneurs through training, loan and grant schemes, access to better and sustainable dyes and ingredients, fabric at competitive price, sustainable disposal of waste and a marketplace to sell directly to the customer.
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