Sacred ruins | Daily News
Welgam Rajamaha Vihara

Sacred ruins

Smooth roads never lead you to smooth destinations. The road that led to Welgam Vihara naturally reminds this well-known quote. On that tough terrain, I drove with my family and friends. My friend, Vimukthi Rangika, had to be extra careful on the driver’s seat, as the road was scarily narrower at certain instances. The electric fence, posted as a barrier to shock and deter animals and people from crossing a boundary, had already struck terror into us. Vimukthi, visibly unshaken, brought the speed way down. My wife and friends were not quite happy with my idea of taking this route that led to an interesting destination.

We were headed to a temple nestled in Kanniya, Trincomalee.

According to the chronicles this temple was built by King Dhewanampiyathissa, the first Buddhist king who reigned during the Anuradhapura era. Kings such as Bhathiya, Agbo II, Vijayabahu I and Parakramabahu I initiated renovations to the construction, as inscriptions indicate. Interestingly the temple was frequented by more Tamil Buddhists than the Sinhalese.

Called Welgam Rajamaha Vihara, the temple still stands amid the ruins. The ruins belong to the recent past left over by the LTTE attacks. The terrorist attacks, however, could not claim the Bodhi Tree, a factor that surprises anyone who visits the site.

Chief Incumbent Venerable Ampitiye Silavansa Tissa Thera and his deputy take us around the temple to show the ruins. With a battle-hardened stature, the Venerable Thera briefs the historical perspective of the temple.

Although Sri Lanka was subject to the Chola invasions during the latter stage of the 10th century, Welgam Vehera was spared. The fact that the Tamil Buddhists frequented the site must have been a probable cause. Once an instrumental religious establishment during Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa and Dambadeniya era, the temple today is a sanctuary for beastly creatures such as elephants.

The Cholas named the temple Rajarajaperumpalli after their emperor Rajaraja and added their own structures and embellishments. When King Vijayabahu became the sovereign of Lanka in the 11th century, Welgam Vihara was restored. Within the walls of a broad prakara enclosing a huge area are several structures half covered by grass and shaded by trees. Dominating the centre is the tall stone Buddha statue. Several entrances lead into the enclosure.

There are brick dagobas with plain stone guardstones and plain moonstones. Scattered here and there are stone bowls, Tamil inscriptions, yantra galas and image houses. Two stone baths lay on the jungle side of the enclosure, one inside the walls and the other just outside the perimeter. Cut into the base of this bath are small grooves akin to stone waves to prevent slipping. Steps leading out of the prakara head into the jungle-covered hill. On a rock upon this hill is an inscription by a commander of King Bhatiya Tissa II (142-168 AD) named Abhaya which records a vihara at the site was named Abhagara.

Welgam Vihara remains visually untouched by the strife that haunts the region. An LTTE camp lies close by. The Buddhist monks still occupy sacred premises. The spectre of massacres haunt them and often the jungle is their refuge and fear is their constant companion.


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