Jerusalem – The Holy of Holies | Daily News

Jerusalem – The Holy of Holies

Mysterious back streets
Mysterious back streets

Juliet Coombe went to Jerusalem to learn more about some of the great religions of the world and discovered a fascinating city half as old as time.

The light from the sunrise danced across the old city of Jerusalem throwing sparkles of golden light over the ‘Wailing Wall’. The air buzzed of people who for three thousand years have been rolling up prayers like the Dead Sea Scrolls and putting messages in the world’s most sacred wall, kissing the stones as they look to the heavens for impossible answers to questions that are as old as man. How does one protect the innocent, when the laws so often protect the unlawful?

After making a prayer and leaving a folded up note, one can walk for hours, losing oneself in the maze of back streets where walled shops are owned by mischievous characters like Zeyad Mujahed on King David Street No 4 – opposite the Christian quarter road, which start to open one after another. His Aladdin like bazaar is just one of the attractions found in the narrow stone built alley ways that draw you in with the contrast of the well worn white stones and colorful Bedouin sequins, along with beautifully hand woven products and fluffy carpets to sit on. A trader through and through he had honed his skills in the family business and at 62 years of age created a style that was genuinely welcoming in contrast to the touts who try to pick you up on the ramparts. Be firm with them as it is so much nicer to walk alone and enjoy in silence the Old City, which was originally built by King David in 1004 B.C.E. and has always been considered the center of the world.

Greek Orthodox trader Zeyad always with a twinkle in his eyes is an original Bedouin and had a big heart and plenty of fascinating local knowledge “I was born here” he explained and this is my grandfather’s shop, an original Bedouin treasure trove. A desert nomadic family who in the 1920s when bringing in yet another camel train of goods through the sacred citadel ancient center decided to make it their home. Clearly so enchanted by its mysterious past and religious foundations Zeyad had lots to say about the place. Big smiles he handed a hot glass of nana, literally translated from Hebrew it means mint tea that he kept hidden in bountiful supply behind his wooden beaded kitchenette store room amongst the kurtha robes, old Bedouin dresses that sparkled when rays of sun light hit them, leather camel bags and mirrored lanterns.

Sitting amongst hand embroidery, dusty ceramics, and Bedouin bags I found myself drawn into this trading characters fascinating history and his magical stories about the Old City of Jerusalem. Seeing I was hungry after my early start to see sunrise over the city he offered freshly made hand crushed hummus with mountains of olive oil and flat bread. To say no was churlish and to miss a chance to talk about the holy sites of Jewish, Christian, and Muslim religions with a local who clearly loves the place would be a real mistake. So as I waited for five minutes for the food I talked about the life of the original walled community woven with layers of history of war and peace, love and hate, destruction and hope through resurrection. Just wandering through Jaffa gate one can’t miss the bullet holes that have left the city so recently scarred. This historical place is where the Jews built the Temple, where Jesus was crucified, and where Mohammed rose to Heaven.

Still chatting a young man arrived with steaming pile of bread, plate of vegetables and I tucked into the hand pressed chickpeas perfectly complimenting the chapatti style breads straight from the oven. I was mesmerized by the stories and the setting of a city that was built into the original hills of the City of David and surrounded by a thick ramparts stone wall over four kilometers long with seven gates, 34 towers, and a citadel (the Tower of David). The citadel is divided into four residential quarters each one representing the key religions of the world and the people who remain carry its spirituality with them. The history of the world can be summed up on so many levels by the people that pass heritage from one generation to the next and in the process make the buildings living history and in their stories the true life of a city is brought to view through its kaleidoscope of different lives. An ancient citadel that feels like it was hewn out of the rock like a woman giving birth to mankind.

After eating, chatting and picking some fascinating pieces as momentous of our time. I am amused with the sales pitch in which he contrasts cheap Chinese machine mass produced with hand made Bedouin pieces woven with simplicity that would make them the perfect accessory on any Parisian cat walk. When asking the price he said as you please and then an astronomical figure was fixed, but I did not have the heart to haggle with a man who had already given me a priceless experience.

As I paid for my shopping he pointed me in the direction of the Armenian Quarter the smallest quarter of the Old City. Telling me as I go that the Armenians settled in Jerusalem in the 4th century for religious reasons, and the St. James Cathedral was built in the 12th century. So off I went through a sea of traders and religious pilgrims to look at one of the most beautiful churches in the country and it’s built upon the remains of a Byzantine church. At the center of the church is a dome resting on four pillars, through which the sun shines and sheds light on the oil paintings on the walls.

From here I explored the Christian Quarter with more than 40 churches, and monasteries, in the heart of the Christian quarter, which was the highlight of my trip to Jerusalem. In particular the breathtaking Church of the Holy Sepulcher or the Church of the Resurrection, which, according to Christian tradition, was the site upon which Jesus was crucified and buried following his final walk along the Via Dolorosa, or the Stations of the Cross. Walking the same route with so many people holding crosses or short prayers is deeply spiritually uplifting and a reinforcement of the importance of faith in our world.


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