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by Karel Roberts Ratnaweera

To most Sri Lankans, Chinese food means fried rice, fried noodles, sweet and sour meat or fish and Foo-Yung Hy. It has been so since those days more than half a century ago when Chinese traders and restaurateurs came to the then Ceylon to do business.

A few Chinese cafes were opened in residential areas of the city as well as the Fort where they existed until quite recently. Chinese traders went about on bicycles carrying their goods tied up in cloth bundles which were transported on their bicycle carriers. They sold China silk, other fabrics and Chinese trinkets and their cries of 'Silk" -- which they pronounced as 'Shiilk' were much looked forward to by all the occupants of urban households as the vendors had something for everyone in their bundles which they would proceed to untie, squatting on the doorsteps of houses, and display their rich and varied wares with much bargaining going on. There was also much feeling of fabric textures between thumb and forefinger as the women folk of the household were dazzled by the yards of cloth shown to them by the vendors.

The few Chinese cafes in Colombo became popular with middle and upper-middle classes of the city where families would eat out, the centrepiece of all lunches and dinners being the earlier-mentioned fried rice and fried noodles and one or two accompaniments, so that the Ceylonese of those days were only familiar with these dishes, and not being exactly adventurous foodwise to explore new food tastes,these rice and noodle dishes were the extent to which their knowledge of Chinese food went. Now, with Chinese restaurants coming up like mushrooms, local diners, especially of the newly affluent classes who can afford to eat in these upmarket restaurants, are experiencing Chinese cuisine that had not been dreamt of in those distant days of Chinese silk vendors.

These expensive Chinese eating places, mostly located in the city's posh zones, offer authentic cuisine from the different regions of China where cuisine cultures differ widely, and local clients begin to see that there is much more to Chinese food than the old favourites, fried rice and fried noodles mixed with small pieces of meat and vegetables like leeks and carrots.

Rice is not eaten in the mountainous quantities that Sri Lankans pile their plates with, consuming more rice than the accompanying vegetable and meat curries, while the Chinese style of eating is in small quantities, allowing for the palate to savour the different flavours in gourmet style.

Chinese food differs from region to region; those in the cold northern and North Western regions eating heavier food than those in the warmer South and South-East, with the central regions having their own dishes to suit the climate and eating habits of its inhabitants. Of course, with rapidly progressing Western trends in China and the profileration of star-class international hotels and restaurants, the Chinese in turn are being exposed to international cuisine more than ever before. When it comes to cuisine, China is to the East what France is to the West.

Looking through the pages of a 'China Today'magazine, we came across this recipe which we reproduce for your eating pleasure. It is relatively simple, the main ingredient being potatoes which are among the most nutritious foods we can eat because of the minerals and potassium they contain. Meat such as pork may be omitted and substituted by some other meat, or even fish, if so desired, in this recipe.

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